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10/31/14 I will be out of the shop from Wednesday, November 5 through Thursday, November 13 and will be back in the shop on Friday, November 14. Any and all orders for in stock items such as Cactus Juice and dyes should ship as normal. Gaige, my right hand, will be here filling orders and shipping while I am away. I will be out of the country on a family vacation and will NOT be checking phone messages or e-mail until after I return. Then it may be a few days before I get caught up so your patience is appreciated.

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Directions for Use

 

Cactus Juice is a heat cured resin used to harden and stabilize most porous material, especially wood.  It comes pre-catalyzed in pints and quarts and ready to catalyze with the included catalyst in 1/2 gallon and larger.  It is quite easy to use to obtain professional results in your home shop following these simple direction.  These directions have some specifics applicable to my Cactus Juice Vacuum Chambers that may not apply to other chambers but the general use should be the same.

Items Needed

  • Cactus Juice
  • Stabilizing chamber (Cactus Juice Stabilizing Chamber, pickle jar, or pressure pot converted for vacuum use)
  • Vacuum pump capable of achieving a minimum of 28” Hg at sea level or 100 microns .  Higher vacuum will produce better stabilized blanks.  (I highly recommend an electric rotary vane vacuum pump since it may take over an hour of vacuum to fully evacuate the blanks of air)  See this article for an explanation of vacuum and stabilizing
  • Small toaster oven (often available at second hand stores for around $10)
  • Aluminum foil
  • Material to be stabilized (10% moisture content or less, preferably 0%)
  • Personal protection equipment including Latex or nitrile gloves and eye protection

 Quick Start Basics for Use

1.Prepare blanks

2.Place blanks in vacuum chamber and weight down

3.Add Cactus Juice to completely cover blanks

4.Apply full vacuum to chamber and keep your vacuum pump running until bubbles stop

5. Release vacuum and soak blanks for at least twice as long as you had them under vacuum

6.Remove blanks

7.Wrap in foil

8.Cure at 200° F (93° C) for 2 hrs

9.Remove foil

10.Allow to cool at room temperature

 Preparation

The first thing is to make sure your material is less than 10% moisture content and clean.  If you do not have a moisture meter, don’t worry!  An easy way to assure your wood blanks are as dry as possible is to place them in your toaster oven at 215° F (101° C) for 24 hours.  Then remove the blanks from the oven and let cool to room temperature in a zip lock bag.  The bag is necessary because a super dried, hot piece of wood will start picking up moisture from the air as soon as they start to cool down.  If your blanks are hot when you add the resin, it will cause premature polymerization and you will have complete failure!

Add Cactus Juice

Next, place your blanks in the stabilizing chamber and weigh them down with the included weight system.  Add the necessary amount of Cactus Juice to the stabilizing chamber so that the blanks are completely submerged with about 1" (25.4 mm) of Juice covering the blanks.  Make sure your stabilizing chamber is in a secure, stable location.  A vacuum chamber under vacuum may implode if exposed to sudden shock such as hitting the floor!

Coloring Cactus Juice

Cactus Juice can be dyed when you want to add some color to the wood.  I have tried various different dyes and have had the best success with Alumilite reactive dyes.  They are very concentrated and produce nice, vivid colors that mix and work well with the Juice.  Some dyes such as Transtint can be used in small amounts but if you add too much, it can affect the way the Juice cures.  With Alumilite dyes, I have not had any issues with it affecting the cure of the Juice.  These dyes are available on my website or direct from Alumilite.com.  Be sure to use more dye than you think you need!

Apply Vacuum

After the Cactus Juice has been added to the chamber, place the lid on the chamber.  You may need to apply a little pressure on the lid to get the gasket to seal.  When you initially start the vacuum, you will be pulling an extraordinary amount of air out of the blanks which will cause the Juice to foam up considerably.  It is best to open the vacuum control valve completely before starting the pump and slowly close it, keeping the foam under control.  After the major foaming has subsided, apply full vacuum.

Depending on the wood you are stabilizing and the vacuum pump you are using, it could take anywhere from 30 minutes to a number of hours to fully evacuate the air and stabilize your blanks.  If your wood contains any moisture at all, you will continue to get tiny bubbles for MANY hours.  I suggest drying your wood as mentioned above.  Keep the vacuum going until you see very few bubbles coming from the blanks.  After all the air has been evacuated, release the vacuum and turn off your pump.  (It is really important to not shut off your pump while under vacuum if you are using a rotary vane pump.  You may cause premature wear on your pump.)   

Allow the blanks to soak for twice as long as you had them under vacuum at a minimum.  A longer soak, up to overnight, will yield better results in many species of wood.  Remember, the majority of resin uptake occurs AFTER you release the vacuum.  If you are using one of my acrylic chambers (Square or rectangular ones), DO NOT ALLOW THE BLANKS TO SOAK IN THE CHAMBER FOR AN EXTENDED PERIOD OF TIME.  COSMETIC DAMAGE TO YOUR CHAMBER IS LIKELY TO OCCUR.  If you want to allow them to soak longer, remove them from the chamber and soak them in a different container or a zip lock bag.  This will also free up your chamber for further use.  This does not apply to my JuiceProof Chambers.  If you do happen to leave the resin in the chamber, your chamber will NOT fail.  It will simply develop a slime on the inside of the chamber that is difficult to remove.  Also, based on extensive testing and the physics behind vacuum impregnation, soaking for days does not provide significant improvement in the amount of resin retained in the blank.

If you have the equipment, you can also add a pressure cycle to speed up penetration.  Adding pressure is not necessary for complete penetration, it just speeds up the natural equalization process you can get by just allowing the blanks to soak.

Curing the Blanks

Remove the blanks from the resin after they soak.  Allow the excess Cactus Juice to drain from the blanks and then wrap them in aluminum foil.  It is a good idea to wrap the blanks individually so that they don’t become one solid mass once the Juice cures.  An easy way to do this is to roll out a 2’ (60 cm) piece of foil and start at one end, wrapping the first blank with one layer.  Then add the second blank next to the first and wrap all of it again.  Then add the third and repeat until all blanks are wrapped.  Fold the ends over and you are ready for the oven.

Now place the wrapped blanks in an oven pre-heated to 200° F (93° C).  Be sure to check the actual temperature of you toaster oven with an oven thermometer.  The dials on toaster ovens are notoriously inaccurate.  Too hot will not harm the Juice but will cause more of it to "leak" out of the blank before it cures.  The internal temperature of the blank needs to reach 200° F (93° C) for a minimum of 10 minutes for the Juice to cure.  This usually takes around 1-1.5 hours for the typical pen blank but may take longer for thicker material.  It does not hurt to leave the blanks in the oven even longer but once you take them out, if you let them cool down and they are not completely cured, placing them back in the oven will NOT cause a complete cure.  It is best to err on the side of caution and cure them longer until you get a better feel for the process.  One way to be sure of proper polymerization is to put on some good gloves and remove the blanks from the oven.  Peel back some of the foil and if you see any liquid Cactus Juice, immediately wrap them back up and put them back in for another hour without allowing them to cool down.

Finishing Up

Once the blanks are finished curing, remove the blanks from the oven with gloves and un-wrap the foil.  Allow the blanks to cool to room temperature.  Once the blanks have cooled, you can scrape off the resin that has bled out of the blank or clean it up on a saw.  This step is not required but will help you see the finished blank better to determine how you want to use them.  A belt sander also does a great job.

Cleaning the Chamber

When finished with the stabilizing process, pour the excess Cactus Juice from the chamber and save it for later use.  I use quart plastic paint mixing cups with lids that you can buy in the paint section at your local home improvement store.  Once the excess Juice has been removed, simply wash out the chamber with dish soap, water, and a rag.  Be sure to allow it to dry completely before your next use.

Inspect Your Chamber

Before every use, inspect your vacuum chamber.  Be sure all of the joints are structurally sound.  Some crazing (cracks) may occur in acrylic chambers but, contrary to what is being spread on the Internet by a competitor, this does not indicate failure and your chamber will not implode!  Remember, if you do happen to have a problem with a chamber purchased from me, I will take care of the problem under warranty.

If you have any issues or concerns with your chamber, or just need some guidance, please feel free to call me.  I enjoy helping insure your success!

Thank you for your business!

 

Here is a video showing the complete process