I was concerned that paduak, being somewhat oily, would not cure properly. There's a caution about oily wood in the directions. Paduak is bright orange-red,
and the color comes off if you rub the wood with rubbing alcohol. I tested a small piece is a little jar of cactus juice, and got good hardening. (Bacote worked
too). The main batch was next--it turned the cactus juice deep orange, and since it's quite hard, and not so porous, it was still bubbling under vacuum after
four hours (but definitely much slower than that initial foam-up shown on the video).
I heat cured my blanks by vacuum bagging them and putting them in a temperature controlled water bath (mentioned in the testing section on the site, it's
much easier to accurately measure the temperature of water than air, and the heat transfer is faster, and I already had it). That worked very well, even
though a little water leaked in (next time, I'll knock off the edges and corners better so they don't poke through the bag). After a brief air dry, the wood was
fine, and very clearly the resin had hardened. The wood was more resistant to splintering and stronger--I trimmed the blank 1/16" on the end grain to get it
to proper length, and the cutoff won't snap in my hand, even though it's all short grain!
Gluing together sections using Titebond III before curing worked just fine, as mentioned in the FAQ's.
This product worked very well in my brief experience, and the large amount of information in the directions, how-to videos, FAQs and test results are very
helpful. Great job!